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    Rules for when your character wants to play....

    Checkers

    Much simpler than chess, several games of checkers can be accomplished in the amount of time it would take to play one game of chess. The game is played on a black and red checkerboard with black and red disc-shaped pieces. The game is divided into three stages: early game, mid-game, and endgame. At the start of the first two stages, players each roll 1d10. At the start of all three stages, players roll opposing Ability Checks. If you are proficient in checkers, add your proficiency bonus to the roll. You may add either your WIS or INT mod, depending on whether you learned by trial and error or by reading books and memorizing tactics., for an end result of d20 + Proficiency + INT/WIS mod.

    Early Game - On a result of 9 or 10 on the d10, you were able to pull off a double-jump, or maybe even a triple-jump, during the early game. Add a +1 bonus to your mid-game d10 roll and a +2 bonus to your mid-game Ability Check.
    Whoever rolled lower on the early game opposed Ability Check roll will roll their mid-game Ability Check at Disadvantage.

    Mid-Game - On a result (natural or modified) of 8 or 9 on the d10, you were able to pull off a double-jump, or maybe even a triple-jump, during the mid-game. Add a +3 bonus to your endgame Ability Check.
    On a result (natural or modified) of 10 or higher on the d10, you were able to get a piece to the opponent's end of the board. "King me!" Add a +6 bonus to your endgame Ability Check.
    If the player who rolled lower on the mid-game opposed Ability Check roll is already at Disadvantage, they simply remain at Disadvantage. for their endgame Ability Check.
    If the player who rolled lower on the mid-game opposed Ability Check roll is not already at Disadvantage, the matchup returns to equal standing.

    Endgame - Whichever player rolls higher on this opposed Ability Check is the winner of the match.

    #2
    Chess

    One of the oldest games in the world. Played on a black and white checkerboard with black and white carved pieces. For chess, you are required to keep track of what pieces you have lost. Both sides start out with:

    1 King, DC 23

    1 Queen, DC 20

    2 Knights, DC 16

    2 Bishops, DC 16

    2 Rooks (Castles), DC 16

    8 Pawns, DC 12

    For a PC vs. NPC game, PC chooses a target for his offensive. This represents a series of moves for each player with the outcome determined by rolling a d20. The NPC does not need to roll, as the countermove is calculated in the roll. As soon as the action is resolved, the PC chooses another target and rolls again. If playing PVP, players can take turns targeting and rolling.

    If you are proficient in chess, add your proficiency bonus to the roll. You may add either your WIS or INT mod, depending on whether you learned by trial and error or by reading books and memorizing tactics. Offensive = d20 + Proficiency + INT/WIS mod.

    If the player exceeds the DC of his targeted piece, he captures the piece with no loss.
    If the player meets the DC of the targeted piece, he captures the piece but sacrifices one of his own. Roll on the sacrifice/loss chart.
    If the player fails the DC of the targeted piece, he simply loses one of his own pieces. Roll on the sacrifice/loss chart.

    On a Nat 20, the player gains a queen. (In chess it is possible to regain a lost queen or even to gain a 2nd queen.)

    On a Nat 1, automatically lose a queen. (No need to roll for the loss). If there is no queen to lose, automatically lose the king (and the game).

    When your roll is successful, you take the piece you targeted. When you sacrifice or lose, you roll 1d4 + 1d6 to determine the loss and consult this table:

    2 – Queen
    3 – Rook
    4 – Lose 2 Pawns
    5, 6, 7 – Lose 1 Pawn
    8 – Knight
    9 – Bishop
    10 – Pawn plus one Knight, Bishop, or Rook. (Player chooses if sacrifice. DM choice or random roll if loss).

    The more you take, the easier the game gets. The more you lose, the harder it gets. Adjust the DC by 2 for every tactical unit: 1 Queen, 2 Bishops, 2 Knights, 2 Rooks, or 4 Pawns. For every unit you lose, the DC gets 2 points harder. For every unit you take (or if you gain a Queen from a nat 20) the DC gets 2 points easier.

    You can try for the quick win, like the Queen’s Gambit. In real chess, it’s 4 moves, but only works if your opponent doesn’t recognize and counter it. In D&D, it’s one roll with a DC 23, because you are targeting the King before any other adjustments. Alternatively, you could try for a win by attrition. Take out 4 pawns. Now the next 4 pawns are down to DC 10. By then, all the other pieces are DC -4. Keep taking the easiest ones until the King’s DC is down to a comfortably low level. But watch the counterattack. Remember, meets beats, but it also sacrifices. Only two or three bad rolls and you could be hurting. If a player has lost all their pawns, but the sacrifice/loss chart demands another pawn, you lose one of the next tier instead (Bishop/knight/rook). If you lose both of one piece, rook for example, and then the roll calls for another, lose one from the same tier (knight or bishop). If you lose all 6, then move up to the queen if she’s still around, or the king if she’s not. To win, take the opponent’s King, whatever the DC is at that point in the game. A win by sacrifice is still a good win. To lose, roll crit-fails (losing the queen(s) and eventually the king), or lose by slow attrition (lose all 6 bishop/rook/knight, then the queen, then the king), lose the king at any point, or concede the game when loss appears inevitable.

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      #3
      Three-Dragon Ante (3DA)

      THE most popular card game played in the D&D universe. In Three-Dragon Ante (3DA for short), you and the other players play three-round gambits where you ante coins into the stakes and then play your hands. Check to see who has the highest total after three rounds. That player wins the gambit and takes the coins in the stakes. Keep playing until someone runs out of coins and can't pay what they owe, ending the game. If you have the most coins in your hoard when the game ends, you win!

      Step 1: Buy-In
      Start by coming to the table with your "hoard", which is a number of coins (copper, silver, gold, platinum, whatever is decided by the group beforehand) equal to the number of players times fifteen. For example, in a three-player game, each player would have to come to the table with 45 coins; a six-player game would require each player to bring 90.

      Step 2: Start a Gambit, Draw Cards
      Each player rolls 6d20. These are the values of the cards in their hand.

      Step 3: Set the Ante
      Each player chooses one card in their hand as their ante card and plays it. The card on the table with the highest value determines the number of coins from their hoard that each player must pay into the stakes at the beginning of each round.

      Step 4: Start a Round
      Each player pays the current gambit's ante into the stakes and then chooses 3 cards to play from their hand.

      Step 5: Check for Flights
      A Color Flight occurs when the 3 values form a sequence (e.g. 9-10-11 or 4-5-6), and a Strength Flight occurs when the 3 values are the same.
      Color Flight: Each opponent immediately pays you coins from their hoard equal to the second highest value in the flight. For example, if you have the three values 9, 4, and 13, then each other player would have to pay you 9 coins.
      Strength Flight: You steal coins from the stakes equal to the value of one of the cards in your strength flight. You also take one of the ante cards currently sitting on the table and add it to your hand.

      Step 6: Calculate Round Total
      Each player adds up the the values that they played, then adds their INT modifier (if it is above zero), and their proficiency bonus if they specifically have proficiency with the game of 3DA. They make a note of this round total. Discard all cards on the table except for the ante cards now.

      Step 7: Draw Up
      Each player rolls 2d20. These are the values of the two cards that they have added to their hand.

      Step 8: Two Rounds Left
      Repeat Steps 4-7 two more times so that three rounds are now complete.

      Step 9: Determine Gambit Winner
      Each player adds the values of their three round totals. The winner is the player with the highest total score. The winner takes the stakes and adds it to their hoard. Discard all cards on the table now, including the ante cards.

      Step 10: Rinse and Repeat
      Replay Steps 2-5 until someone's hoard runs out of coins.

      Step 11: Ending the Game
      If at any point during the previous steps a player runs out of coins, they pay whatever they can and keep track of the coins they could not pay. This is the amount they owe to "the hole". Once the gambit winner has been decided, the player pays whatever they can to the hole. If any player still has no coins after this, the game is over. Each player walks away with what is left of their hoard. The winner is the player with the largest hoard. They also get to take the coins in the hole.

      NOTES
      If, at any time, no gold remains in the stakes, a gambit ends immediately as if Step 9 had been reached and a new gambit begins.
      In the extremely rare case in which players tie as winners, they share the victory and split the coins from the hole as evenly as possible. If they can’t agree on which of them gets the odd coin from the hole, they’re encouraged to give it to the player who ran out of coins.

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        #4
        Poker

        There is no poker in the D&D universe, but there is Azoun's Hold 'em, which is extremely close. This game of cards originated in the kingdom of Cormyr, and was often played by the knights at King Azoun's hold. Azoun's Hold 'em is a gambling game which uses cards. To represent these cards, you use a d6 for each card. Whenever the rules refer to cards, they mean the dice you are using to represent them.

        The players first pay the buy-in (recommended is 50gp but it can be any amount). This forms the starting pot. Players then decide an ante increment.
        Players pay the opening ante and three cards are then dealt to each player. To represent this, each player rolls 3d6, keeping the results private.
        Now a round of betting begins. Each player must contribute to the pot in order to keep playing or fold and be out of the round. Players must match the current bet and may then raise it, if they wish, by as many ante increments as they like.
        Each player then can choose exchange two, one, or none of their cards. This is represented by each player choosing and rerolling the relevant number of their dice. They must specify how many they are rerolling to the other players.
        Another round of betting ensues, similar to the first.
        Finally, the players who have not yet folded show their hand, and whoever has the best hand wins the round and takes all the money in the pot.

        The hierarchy of winning hands is as follows.. The more stars, the better the hand.
        ****Three of a kind: All three of your cards have the same number on them. For example 5, 5, 5.
        ***Straight: All three of your cards are in consecutive order. For example 4, 5, 6.
        **Same parity: All three of your cards are either all odd or all even. For example 3, 1, 1 or 2, 4, 6.
        *Two of a kind: Two of your cards have the same number on them. For example 2, 2, 3.
        If two or more players both have the highest type of hand at the table, their three cards are summed up and the player with the highest total wins. If the totals are the same, the money is split evenly among them.

        Although cheating is discouraged and not an official part of the game, and an opponent might take violent action if they catch you cheating, a big part of Azoun's Hold 'em's appeal is how well it lends itself to cheating attempts. And it is not uncommon, when played in unofficial locations such as taverns, for players to tell one another with a simple wink or a nod that they will be attempting to cheat and they encourage their opponent to do the same, creating a game-within-the-game where the two try to catch each other in the act.
        A player with proficiency in playing cards can add their proficiency bonus to any ability check and to their passive perception even if they are not otherwise proficient in that skill.

        If a player decides to cheat at any point during the game, they can roll a Dexterity (Sleight of hand) check. They can cheat in this way once during each of the betting stages of each round.
        If the player rolls higher than all of their opponents' Passive Perception scores by 5 or more, they can change one of their dice results to a value of their choosing. This represents having cards up their sleeve or choosing specific cards from the deck.
        If the player rolls higher than all of their opponents' Passive Perception scores, but by less than 5, they can reroll one of their dice. This represents discreetly picking a card at random and discarding a card they dislike.
        If the player rolls lower than or equal to the Passive Perception of the most perceptive player, but higher than or equal to that of the least perceptive player, they are unsuccessful in their attempt to cheat, but are not caught. This represents a player being too attentive to grant you the opportunity to cheat.
        If the player rolls lower than the Passive Perception of the least perceptive player, they are caught in their attempt to cheat, and the other players might respond in a hostile manner.

        A player can also attempt to cheat using spells, such as Prestidigitation to change the number on a card or Suggestion to persuade them to fold. If the spell has somatic or material components, casting it discreetly will require a Dexterity (Sleight of hand) check. If the spell requires both components, it is rolled with disadvantage. If the spell has verbal components, casting it discreetly will require a Dexterity (Stealth) check. A spell with verbal and other components will require both checks to succeed to cast the spell discreetly.
        If the player rolls higher than all of their opponents' Passive Perception scores on both their Stealth and Sleight of hand checks, they succeed in discreetly casting.
        If the player rolls lower than the Passive Perception of the least perceptive player on either of their checks, the spell is cast but they are caught.
        Otherwise, in all other scenarios they do not succeed but are also not caught and the spell is not cast.
        The GM decides how each spell affects the game. For example, an illusion spell might alter a card, and Detect Thoughts might reveal the opponent's hand.

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          #5
          Blackjack

          Yes, blackjack exists pretty much unchanged in the D&D world, though they call it Twenty-One.

          Start with a buy-in. Suggested is 25gp per player but it can be anything. The dealer will match.
          The dealer and each player then roll 2d10, where all die sides keep their face value except for the 1, which will be treated as either 1 or 11, depending on what you need.
          Players and the dealer then have the option to "Hit", rolling as many additional dice as they see fit. You want your total to be 21 or as close as possible to 21. If you exceed 21, you "Bust" and automatically lose. When you are happy with your total, you choose to "Stay" and hope that your total is higher than the dealer's.
          Winnings are split evenly with any odd remaining amount going to the dealer.

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            #6
            Tymora’s Spinner

            A game that you'll find in both established gaming houses and also in common taverns, Tymora’s Spinner shares a lot of similarities with roulette. Players compete to guess either the exact number of a single d20 rolled by the dealer or to guess whether the result would be odd or even.

            Start with a buy-in. Suggested is 10gp per player but it can be anything.
            Once all bets are in, the dealer spins.
            A player who guessed the exact number on the d20 wins 5x the amount that they bet, and anyone who guesses the odd or even outcome will get a 1.5 payout (rounded down). Losing bets are contributed to the gaming house or to whoever owns the spinner.
            The gnomish company Walgrith's Woodworks are the only entity that are legally allowed to make and sell spinners, so players are encouraged to always check for the Walgrith's Woodworks logo on the flat bottom of the spinner. Players are heavily discouraged against playing on any other spinner, as it is not only an illegal copy, but it quality and accuracy cannot be confirmed.

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              #7
              Liar’s Dice

              A simple game that you'll only find in taverns, where it is quite popular.

              Start with a buy-in. Suggested is 10gp per player but it can be anything.
              Someone in the group is elected to be "Player 1". Afterward, this role will rotate to another player each round.
              All participating players roll 5d6 and keep those results hidden inside a locked Spoiler.
              Player 1 claims that they have a face value and a number of dice showing that face value.
              The next player can either accept the previous player's claim and make a claim of their own or challenge the previous player's claim.
              If they accept the claim and make one of their own, they must raise either the face value, the number of dice showing the face value, or both.
              If they challenge the claim, all Spoilers are unlocked the the dice are revealed. If the claim turned out to be true, the bidder wins and the challenger is eliminated. If the claim was a lie, then the challenger wins and the bidder is eliminated. Last bidder at the table wins the pot.

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                #8
                Gyp

                Another simple, straightforward game played only in taverns.

                Start with a buy-in. Suggested is 5gp per player but it can be anything.
                Each player rolls 2d6. If they hit a total of 7 or 12, they win back 2x their bet. Or, if they wish, they can bet double the buy-in price and roll 3d6. The odds of a 7 or 12 are more difficult, but a win will yield 3x their bet. Losses go to the tavern. The dwarven company Samsour's Stoneworks are the only entity that are legally allowed to make and sell Gyp dice sets, and they can only sell them to licensed taverns, so players are encouraged to always check for the Samsour's Stoneworks logo on the "6" face of the die. Players are heavily discouraged against using any other dice set, as it is not only illegal, but the set's quality and accuracy cannot be confirmed.

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